Perfumes in the same fragrance family don't necessarily smell alike — or even similar.
Take Aromatics Elixir. It's categorized as a floral chypre, just like Aphrodisia, Shocking, and L'Arte di Gucci, but unlike those scents, which have varying degrees of sweetness intact and are relatively easy to love, Aromatics Elixir is dry, herby/woody, and green. You can smell the rose and florals, but their greenest and most woodland facets have been emphasized rather than their lush and sweet sides. (I could imagine it on a man as easily as I could a woman; in fact, if it came out today, it would probably be in the men's fragrance section.)
Although it's beautiful, I think Aromatics Elixir is an acquired taste, or for someone inclined toward green chypres. That might just be me, though. When I was a perfume-obsessed tween at the mall, trying on everything I could get my hands on, I remember thinking that Aromatics Elixir stunk to high heaven and I wondered who would want to smell so harsh, so unlike a flower. That was then...
Aromatics Elixir smells like a mixture of dried, pressed roses, coriander and carnation whose arid herbiness has been reconstituted with a few drops of sweet flower essences (ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine). This contrast between dry and sweet rests on a warming, animalic, and spicy base of sandalwood, vetiver and a heaping dose of patchouli, with its camphoraceous-medicinal, oily darkness.
Top notes: Bergamot, green notes, coriander, rosewood, aldehyde, palmarosa (a rose-scented species of lemongrass also called Indian geranium)
Heart notes: Rose de Mai, jasmine, carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orris
Base notes: Patchouli, vetiver, civet, sandalwood, oakmoss, cistus, musk
(Perfumer: Bernard Chant)
This beautiful and complex seventies classic is so different in style from the prevailing taste for clean and fruity (or at least the prevailing distaste for chypres) that it surprises me it's actually still at the Clinique counter rather than behind museum glass. It has that air about it that Private Collection by Estee Lauder has, that it would rather be admired than loved, described as chic rather than pretty. Given this scent profile, the only contemporary woman I could see pulling off AE would be Chloe Sevigny, the edgy beauty who makes retro style her own.
Who is wearing Aromatics Elixir these days? Inquiring minds want to know! In the meantime, check out some fascinating and hilarious Basenotes reviews. As you will see, Aromatics Elixir (how great is that name, by the way?) is a love-it-or-hate-it scent.
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bbBd: [I]f you're looking for a woody, green floral that is simultaneously rich yet intricately layered then march down to your local mall and plunk down $35 for a 50ml bottle at the Clinique counter. This may just be the most interesting, most vintage-evoking perfume you can buy at the mall today. A thick layer of oakmoss covers a heart of jasmine and rose that does not relent through the base. Non-specific 'green notes' meander about and musk softens as the perfume progresses...Worried about this being too feminine? Forget it - this has more testosterone then anything at the boys' counter but still wears as a sophisticated and classy feminine.
Kevin Guyer: Like most of Bernard Chant's work for Estee Lauder, this is heavy handed...It plays its repetitive, repulsive/addictive, matronly modern duality like an angry child of a dysfunctional family.
Madame du Barry: This isn't perfume; it's Chinese herbal medicine. I dislike this cough syrup with a passion.
Kanasta: Strong, harsh, and nauseating.
I love Aromatics Elixir and I'm curious about Clinique's attitude to it's stablemate, Wrappings. Why do they keep it under wraps? I'd love to try it but how to get hold of it in the UK? .... If you have some, I'd appreciate a review.
cheerio, Anna in Edinburgh
Posted by: Anna in Edinburgh | October 13, 2010 at 12:44 PM
Hi Anna. I vaguely remember the oddly-named perfume Wrappings (is that supposed to allude to Christmas?). I don't know anything about it, but after reading its notes, I'm curious about it. I'm a green fragrance freak, so it sounds wonderful to me. It seems like Estee Lauder and Clinique have retained some wonderful vintage-y scents. We should reward them for not discontinuing them by buying up Estee, Azuree, Aliage, and Aromatics Elixir!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 13, 2010 at 12:52 PM
Wrappings is usually available as a gift set (edp and lotion) around Xmas time here in the US. It's lovely, pine-y green, flowery, and somewhat fresh without going too far in any direction. It's very distinctive and, like Aromatics Elixir, a little dab will do ya.
Posted by: moongrrl | October 13, 2010 at 06:17 PM
Sorry to post one after another, but the Wrappings gift set is up on Clinique's website right now. Click "Shop Holiday" and then "Shop Fragrance Sets". :-)
Posted by: moongrrl | October 13, 2010 at 06:20 PM
Thanks moongrrl. I will keep my eye out for it. :)
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 13, 2010 at 06:27 PM
Good question. Who wears AE these days? It is SO out of fashion, SO divisive in its effect on people, and SO cheap. I marvel every time I walk past the tester at my local department store. And it seems so out of kilter (sp?) with the typical Clinique customer, who seems usually to be a conservative soul just looking for solid, reliable, inexpensive and fuss-free cosmetics and skin care products.
Well, I am a Clinique customer, and I love AE. I love green chypres. I love vintage perfumes. I love Private Collection. I can't afford Serge Lutens. Simple as that.
Posted by: Anne | October 14, 2010 at 05:19 AM
Wrappings is available as an exclusive gift set in one exclusive store in London this Christmas - a fact I've brought to OH's attention. (The post and packing had better utilise gold leaf and winged chariots for the price given!)
cheerio, Anna in Edinburgh - an AE fan.
Posted by: Anna in Edinburgh | October 14, 2010 at 09:16 AM
I have a funny but true story about Aromatics. For a few short months I worked at a Lancome counter and it sat between Estee Lauder & Clinique. Very few of us wore our own scents (which they obviously wanted us to do) and opted for the competition. For example, one of the Clinique SAs loved Youth Dew Nude, the Estee SA liked Tresor, while I liked AE. The funny thing is, I was threatened within an inch of my life by the Clinique counter if I sprayed it. It was a unanimous decision at that counter that it was the foulest stuff ever invented. I tried to educate them that the secret is a light application, but it was still burning torches and angry villagers if I even looked at it. Of course now that I think of it, I got the same response with Magie Noire. WOW! I was ahead of the perfume curve before I even knew there was one!! And as far as men wearing AE, they sort of have their own version in ARAMIS 900. It's almost exactly the same but not quite as tenacious and a tad bit dryer.
Posted by: Meliscents | October 14, 2010 at 11:04 AM
I wear Aromatics Elixir. It is gloriously demanding, and I love that characteristic in fragrances. Bernard Chant is one of my favourite noses, I also love Aramis, among others.
Posted by: Pimpinett | October 14, 2010 at 12:32 PM
Anne, thanks for "coming out" as an AE user! ;) I admitted I hated it as a child (I mean, you'd have to be an awfully sophisticated child to love this!), but I have a push-pull relationship to it now. I love its greenness, but I fight with what to me feels medicinal. Let's put it this way: after a day of sniffing niche lines at Barneys and every perfume known to womankind, my nose should have been exhausted. But AE woke it right up, and became the star of the day. These green 70s scents are so down-to-earth and tough-talking, yet exotic and beautiful. I love that combination...
Its interesting how you're reconciling Clinique's solid, reliable, and fuss-free brand with AE. Ironically, AE seems practically avant-garde as a fragrance now.
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 14, 2010 at 12:40 PM
Anna, I'm definitely on the Wrappings trail. I'm gonna get me some at Christmas!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 14, 2010 at 12:41 PM
Meliscents, thanks for the Confessions of a Perfume Sales Associate story! That is hilarious that the Clinique ladies hated AE. It's beautiful, but weird and challenging, even for me! And I love Magie Noire, too. :) Thanks for the heads up on Aramis 900. I keep hearing about that. I guess it's different from Aramis, which I love. And yes, Bernard Chant rocks!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 14, 2010 at 12:45 PM
Pimpinett — AE is gloriously demanding, but you're right — this is a good thing! And Aramis rocks my world. :)
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 14, 2010 at 12:47 PM
I love love LOVE this, but I no longer have any - it's just so strong. Back in its heyday I could get away with it, since everybody was wearing even bigger perfumes like Giorgio, but not now!
Posted by: Flora | October 15, 2010 at 12:57 AM
Flora, I think Meliscents is right in saying that the trick is light application. One spray is almost too overpowering! Maybe half a spray or even just the body cream early in the day will last you all day. I've already gotten compliments on it. My point? Get out your Aromatics Elixir again! You have permission. :)
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 15, 2010 at 10:49 AM
Oh - I had AE wayyy back, a small sample only. And it went a long way, as I could only bear to use a minute dab of a micro drop.
Nowadays I can not use it any longer- I get kind of "nose-aches" from this scent
Posted by: Chatelainesdreams.blogspot.com | October 17, 2010 at 10:24 PM
I really don't know why don't like Aromatics Elixir. I like deep fragrance smells. But this one seems to me too citric or something I can't really figure out.
Posted by: Vintage Lady | October 22, 2010 at 12:08 PM
Vintage Lady, thanks for stopping by. AE is not an easy perfume, and it makes sense that not everyone likes it. I have an uneasy relationship to it and find that it's easier to like if I have very little on!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | October 22, 2010 at 06:37 PM
Hey!
I used to wear AE when I was in my early to mid 20's (early to mid 1980's). I love your comment "AE. It's beautiful, but weird and challenging..." I loved it then and it drove the men I was around wild. I've never received so many compliments on any other perfume that I've ever worn. Maybe you have to be beautiful, but weird and challenging to love it. I certainly am...well, I'm at least attractive....
The trick is definitely a light application....one spray on your torso or decolletage, then quickly caress your wrists across that.
Something else to consider...age and hormones affect how we perceive scents and how our bodies react to them. I don't think I could wear AE today...though my husband might love it!
Question for our host....do you think that over the years they might have substituted some of the natural essences in this scent for synthetic ones? That might also account for some of the differences in people who used to like it, but now don't and vice versa.
Bloom
Posted by: Deborah Bloom | October 31, 2010 at 10:20 PM
Hm, I am a regular reader of your blog; it fascinates me, though to understand your conoisseurship is beyond me. I just love reading your descriptions.
I'm a one-perfume (per season) woman, and I wear AE. I can't understand why people should hate it so much. Yeah, it's strong at first spritz, like any perfume. But it calms down very quickly.
I'm 35, working class, very approachable judging from those who approach me. I've gotten quite a few compliments on AE. Even my husband likes it, and this is the first time he's approved of my choice of perfume.
I love how it's dry, soapy, sweet but not too sweet, and rich. I bought the soap, too. But OK, the body cream smelled like DEATH. I tried it on my hands first, thinking it would settle down but it almost made me sick, all day. Glad I didn't buy it.
Posted by: kips | November 05, 2010 at 03:38 PM
Hi Deborah Bloom,
Nice last name for someone who likes perfume. ;) Glad you like AE! In doses, I like it too, although it does scare me a bit, and I usually have out there tastes! No wilting flower could wear AE, that's for sure, and I think any man who likes it is unique as well. It's got an herbal, medicinal edge...
As for your question about reformulation: I wouldn't doubt if it hasn't been reformulated. (Now that oakmoss is banned, most definitely.) I usually only review vintage versions of scents that are still out there. I'll try to get my hands on some vintage and compare. Either way, something tells me they didn't reformulate the "beautiful, weird and challenging" out of it!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | November 05, 2010 at 04:34 PM
Thanks for stopping by, kips. I think the people who hate AE do so for varying reasons. 1) It's not their type. Maybe they like straight-forward florals or Oriental fragrances that are more traditionally feminine. 2) These days, what's popular for women is either a clean, citrus scent or some fruit bomb gourmand scent. AE most definitely doesn't fit into this style. As a chypre (with bergamot, florals and a base with oak moss, patchouli, etc.), it's quite out of style, a little masculine. For those of us who love this perfume category, and I am one, this is a plus!
AE has notes that only some people can handle: carnation, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver, civet, coriander, etc. Also, I think you're right when you say it "dies down." Maybe it's the first sniff that freaks people out.
All I know is, we like what we like, and I'm glad you like Aromatics Elixir! You definitely stand out in a sea of women wearing boring perfume. :)
Posted by: Perfumaniac | November 05, 2010 at 04:45 PM
I love Aromatics Elixir! I think it smells kind of like an attic. It's sexy in a peculiar way; I always get compliments on it!
Posted by: Joan | December 08, 2010 at 10:15 PM
"Smells like an attic" is a compliment only a perfume-lover could appreciate! I love it.
Posted by: Perfumaniac | December 10, 2010 at 04:20 PM
The initial spritz is so bracing, it is like an olfactory atom bomb, with people running for their lives and shouting "Clear the room!"...while off in the dark corners, one or two perverse souls close their eyes and inhale deeply, mouthing "Ooh la la" under their breaths. I enjoy Aromatics Elixir, espcially the initial stages which are so polarizing, but I can't say it's a huge favorite of mine.
I'm lately finding that for me there is a huge dividing line with the chypres that I am passionate about, and those I merely like. The dividing line is the introduction of Damascenone aromachemicals, first introduced around 1970. Aromatics Elixir, Coriandre, Rive Gauche, Tea Rose by Perfumer's Workshop, Chanel No. 19...all of them have the same distinctive Damascenone rosiness in them. I find that I prefer the murkier, warmer rose notes that came before Damascenones were introduced, like in Shiseido Zen Classic, Ma Griffe, Miss Dior, YSL Y, etc. Damascenones are definitely more realistic smelling than what came before, but they just smell so immediately identifiable and cold. I dunno. Just my two cents.
Posted by: robin | January 04, 2011 at 11:41 PM
Hi Robin. Interesting to hear your take on this most polarizing of scents. It's also interesting to hear about its use of damascones (or Damascenone). Aromatics Elixir is very medicinal to me in a way I find interesting, but unwearable. (Having said that, when I was writing about it, I left it on and got a lot of compliments, so maybe it smells good to others after a while?)
Posted by: Perfumaniac | January 05, 2011 at 04:09 PM
Back in the mid 70s my best friend's significantly older sister kept a bottle of Aromatics Elixir in her bedroom. Whenever the coast was clear I used to sneak into her room and secretly spritz (I was 10 at the time). My best friend used to say to me, "How can you like that stuff? It reminds me of cough syrup!". I did not purchase my own bottle until I was in my early 20s. While wearing it a friend of mine would always grab it out of my bag and spray it on herself. Finally I got her a bottle for Christmas. Needless to say it became her signature scent, so I had to stop wearing it!
Posted by: breathe31 | March 16, 2011 at 02:10 PM
I used this "back in the day" and I loved it. Does it still smell wonderful? It must have mixed with my chemistry because other people loved it on me too, several of my friends bought it because they thought it was so nice on me. I'm wanting to revisit it.... So, is it still lovely? Chypre, I love chypre....
PS: When I declare bankruptcy, I wonder if I can blame it on perfume...
Posted by: Cathlyn | May 31, 2011 at 05:10 PM
I love it Cathlyn, but some people find too medicinal. Check it out at your local mall! The fantastic thing is it's still around.
Posted by: Perfumaniac | May 31, 2011 at 07:21 PM
Thanks, I think I will have another go at it. I know that the best way to wear this one is a small spritz and a "walk through" right after a shower. I remember that I loved the way it smelled. I am just so addicted to perfume.........................
Posted by: Cathlyn | June 01, 2011 at 10:35 AM
Being addicted to perfume is something I completely understand, Cathlyn! You might want to try the Aromatics Elixir perfumed cream. I got a sample of that and it's a subtle way of wearing what might otherwise be an overwhelming perfume...
Posted by: Perfumaniac | June 01, 2011 at 10:42 AM
This is all cultural, I'm convinced. Interesting discussion, thanks for prompting it!
In Greece Clinique's Aromatics Elixir is neither cheap (it retails the same as any typical scent from Dior or Yves Saint Laurent does) nor is it unpopular; on the contrary, it's firmly in the top-5 at all times, worn to death by all ways of life (but usually from the over 25 years of age group) and immediately identified in the street. The sillage off strangers is even more delicious than wearing the thing on its own!
It's so very popular that a Greek company issuing perfumes has made a comparable scent that is heavily inspired by AE (only it's easier to wear, being a little less strong)
I suppose chypre and eastern mediterranean mix well :-)
Posted by: perfumeshrine | February 22, 2012 at 09:04 AM
Hi Helg from the awesome perfume blog, PerfumeShrine.com! So the ladies in Greece love Aromatics Elixir unreservedly? Interesting. Any theories? (When I tried it on, the Clinique counter sales associate told me that the SAs from Lancome etc. begged her never to spray the stuff. They hated it!) As for your comment, "The sillage off strangers is even more delicious than wearing the thing on its own!" I think you might be onto something. I gave a little to a friend, and when I caught a whiff of it unexpectedly on her weeks later, I thought she smelled amazing. Its initial blast is a bit much perhaps, and it mellows out? Thanks for stopping by!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | February 23, 2012 at 01:48 AM
i like it ok ...but no perfume i have ever worn gets the thumps down from woman sooo much ,,,and thumps up from EVERY man ...and in the end ,,,,man won lol
Posted by: ilona | January 29, 2013 at 06:23 AM
PS- Straight out of the bottle, AE is overwhelmingly sharp and medicinal. It goes without saying, AE really *must!* be given time to BREATHE and SETTLE on the skin / clothes / hair, to develop into the beauty she is, before you attempt to interact with people! And, of course, this perfume is incredible value for the dollar- A very little bit, goes a very long way! I always lightly dab on all over, using a small cotton swab (like the kind used for removing nail polish)- & then tuck that swab inside my bra... And, especially w/ AE, always remember the primary laws of perfume physics- Scent rises!
Best, Lisa :)
Posted by: Lisa Robertson | February 22, 2013 at 02:11 AM
aromatics elixir has me stopped constantly and asked are you wearing essential oils?? you smell fantastic!! so great not to be fruity or floral. the smell is heavenly and it appears to be making comeback. I hope Clinique NEVER discontinues it. while it I love it or hate it, aren't all scents?
Posted by: ila | September 22, 2013 at 02:06 PM
It is good, ila — both the current formula and discontinued. That doesnt always happen! And yes, Im glad Clinique still has it. Its a classic!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | September 22, 2013 at 03:18 PM
This is one of my all time favourites and I wore it exclusively for a long time, taking a break when a work colleague wore it, having moved on - time to reclaim.
Also playing around with Tabu at the moment.
Posted by: Jacqui Grainger | November 08, 2013 at 07:33 PM
Jacqui, I stop in my tracks anytime I notice someone is wearing it. It is wonderful
Sent from my iPhone
Posted by: Perfumaniac | November 08, 2013 at 08:37 PM
Hi, I linked into this blog via Jezebel and I just love your writing and can't wait to read your book. Aromatics Elixir is one of my all-time favorites. It doesn't work with everyone and can be a 'difficult' scent, but for those fans of it, there is nothing else out there like it, and it hits all the right notes with the die-hards. On me it's a fully-developed masterpiece of a fragrance, as it has its bright florals, creamy boozy notes, of course the green chypre, and deep amber, vetyver, and patchouli at the base. There's a chaos to it that resonates with those who don't it safe with fragrance. I don't wear perfume just to blend in with the wallpaper. It's a mandate from a hippie childhood and being raised in part by a 20s flapper. I hope it never disappears, and, luckily, the current composition is very faithful to the original.
Posted by: plus.google.com/109992313650489021783 | December 08, 2013 at 12:07 PM
Thanks for stopping by! I think Estee Lauder is one of the few lines that gets their reformulations right. Aromatics Elixir still smells amazing. Ive come to realize that every time I stop a woman now and ask, WHAT are you wearing? I already know the answer; I just want confirmation. Its AE. Distinctive, elegant, and sexy. What more could you want??
Posted by: Perfumaniac | December 10, 2013 at 06:15 AM
Indeed, re: AE- and thanks for the reply. I've plugged your book on Fragrantica, where I live part of the year (smile). One of the other 'residents' has already read it and loved it.
See: http://www.fragrantica.com/board/viewtopic.php?pid=1623833#p1623833
Happy Holidays, and Happy 'Fuming,'
Cheers,
Jill
Posted by: Jill Sim | December 10, 2013 at 05:36 PM
Wow, Jill. What a compliment! Thank you so much!!
Posted by: Perfumaniac | December 11, 2013 at 06:01 AM
Also, did you see this, Jill? http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Scent-Subversion-Decoding-a-Century-of-Provocative-Perfume-by-Barbara-Herman-4853.html By Ida Meister.
Posted by: Perfumaniac | December 11, 2013 at 06:03 AM
looking for the pureless and strongest aromatics since the 1820's. cant find it. Can you help me find it. Ihe oldest is the strongest and better smelling. Please responded as soon as possible. [email protected] Don't forget : the pureless and strongest since the 1820's.
Posted by: Marie Green | September 03, 2014 at 05:06 PM