Diva by Emanuel Ungaro (1983)

When I was a teenager in the 80s, my mother bought me a giant bottle of Diva in the crystal bottle with glass stopper. I would wear it occasionally, but it struck me as inappropriate, the equivalent of an 14-year-old in a pleated Emanuel Ungaro evening gown with plunging neckline.

Finding a mini recently (for a song) on eBay, I put it on and its seductive notes came right back at me. The only difference? I am ready for Diva.

Top notes: Bergamot, aldehyde, coriander, rosewood, hyacinth

Heart notes: Rose, jasmine, tuberose, carnation, orris, ylang-ylang

Base notes: Patchouli, vetiver, honey, oakmoss, civet, musk, cistus

Honeyed, creamy, spicy, and soft, Diva is at once fresh/floral and animalic/rich. Like Paloma Picasso, which was also categorized as a floral-animalic chypre and released one year later, it's a big scent that has something to say.

The sweetness of ylang-ylang and jasmine are tempered with the soft-focus effects of orris, musk, and cistus (aka labdanum), the resin from the Rockrose bush that lends lush creaminess to scents. Patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss add rough drama, while civet and honey (the civet more subtly than honey), add a touch of eros to Diva's lady-like demeanor.

One way of wearing such an outmoded scent like Diva today would be to put on a judicious amount early in the morning, with at least an hour for it to rest on your skin. (I have the parfum concentration, and one tiny drop has filled the air in a friend's tiny apartment, so beware.) In the dry-down, Diva retains its character, while mellowing out enough so as not to scare your neighbors.

Diva is like one of the big cats at the zoo: less intimidating, almost friendly — when it's napping.

Comments

[Rita Long]

I like the idea of a scent being friendly when it's napping! I must have seen this ad when I was a kid-- it was such a striking image, and almost a shock to see it again. I think I wanted that dress REALLY badly when I was a teenager (and the curves to fill it out-- that came later...)

[Perfumaniac]

Hi, Rita! Yeah, the ad brought back memories (mammaries? sorry — I had to) for me, too. I could never wear that dress, but Diva perfume? Totally. I'm on a honey kick, and this is a nice one.

[Carol Guthrie]

Diva is beautiful - and I never could have worn it as a teenager in the 80's, either! These days I find it lovely, although my husband does not care for it at all. He tends to struggle with any complex floral like Bal a Versailles or Rumba, until the drydown, and in any case, prefers simple, soft florals on me. (I wear what I like, but I'm amenable to wearing his favorites on date nights.)

It's interesting to me that you've compared it to Paloma, which I do NOT like - I feel as though it's shouting at me. True, they're both to my mind rose chypres, but in my opinion Diva's wearable and Paloma's not. I have not tried (or even seen!) Paloma in the early white bottle, and that might make a difference.

Diva is similar, in my mind, to L'Arte di Gucci, which is a favorite of mine. You were reviewing the parfum?

[Perfumaniac]

I'll have to try L'Arte de Gucci, Carol. Thanks for the suggestion. I think Diva and Paloma Picasso are similar in their 80s bigness and in their beauty, but I agree with you, they're similar scent-wise only in their categorization as floral/animalic (rose) chypres. Paloma Picasso would be a harder one for people to love, I imagine, but I do love it! (And yes, I have the perfume concentration. It's a subtler perfume in the white bottle than in the black, although I don't know if it's any less powerful, if that makes any sense. If you don't love its notes, I'm not sure the white one would change your mind.)

[He8ther]

I remember the ad too now! Diva sounds like one I would really like, and I keep hearing about L'Arte di Gucci too. How do they compare to my 80s signature Ysatis? They seem to have similar notes with the tuberose/sweet floral heart and mossy base.

[Perfumaniac]

He8ther, the honey in Diva is prominent, and along with cistus, patchouli, musk and the rest, it's animalic and sultry. Ysatis has a similar base, but because of the initial green note and fruit notes, it seems lighter. Diva seems more like a womanly seductresss scent; Ysatis is a flirt.

[See_jane_sell]

Oh I LOVE your site!!! I adore Diva, always have, but, I am very careful to buy/wear only the EDT version. Its more clear and woody with less sillage. Diva EDT was released after the EDP and I just find it much more wearable. An absolute fave and your post has inspired to wear it today.
I also own l'Arte di Gucci and agree with Carol- much closer to Diva than Paloma. Paloma seems to stay at FULL VOLUME and has very little evolution, one of the more linear rose chypres out there. Diva (and L'Arte) evolves and "fits" to it's wearer more than Paloma. I can spot Paloma a mile away, whereas I've had people tell me they are wearing Diva and I never would have guessed it. Different chemistry brings out different notes in Diva.. it is a beauty!!
You are so right about Ysatis, a soapy green vs the sultry spell of Diva.
Thank you for your wonderful site!
hugs, jane

[Perfumaniac]

I love having perfume mavens weigh in not only on the perfumes under review — but on their concentration, staying power, and sillage. (My people!) Thanks for stopping by, Jane, and I hope you come back. :)

[parfum]

I love wearing this perfume. It's a great smell and lasts long.

[Dorothy]

I love Diva and ordered it on line but I am sure it was fake where can a get the real Diva?

[gerrye hall]

where can I get a bottle of real diva perfume

[Athena]

Purchased a bottle of Dive from mimosa and it brought back the memories from years ago,and yes it is the same as it was.Always and still love it.