Calèche by Hermès (1961)

"A rather severe Parisian woman long in the industry described Hermès perfumes to me as compact. Handsome. Forbidding. Maitrisé (controlled), masculine, the opposite of fantasy, never, she stated firmly, a Fracas by Piguet...never the mad gourmandise of Mugler's Angel. They were not easy, these Hermès fragrances, she said...Not accessible. Not feminine in any common sense. 'They — she meant Hermès — 'like animals more than people'...Fragility is not their thing."

— The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York, by Chandler Burr

I will try to describe what I think the austerely beautiful Calèche is, now that this wonderful "severe Parisian woman" has told us what Hermès perfumes are not.

Although Calèche is categorized as an aldehydic/sweet floral, it was the resiny, woody, and balsamic base that left the biggest impression on me. Like red lipstick for the outdoorsy aristocrat who can't otherwise be bothered to wear makeup, Calèche is a perfume for the woman who doesn't have to try too hard. The epitome of Parisian chic, it's reserved, elegant, and well-thought out without being fussy.

Calèche starts off with sharp aldehydes and the crisp citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and neroli. What follows is a gorgeously blended bouquet of classic floral notes, including narcotic jasmine and ylang-ylang. It doesn't take long for it to settle into understated spice and woods from the olibanum (frankincense), vetiver and sandalwood followed by warmth and a hint of Oriental sweetness from amber and tonka. It's less obtrusive or sweet as a Jolie Madame or a Cuir de Russie, but its floral+sweet+masculine base reminds me of their scent personalities.

Top notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, cypress

Heart notes: Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang

Base notes: Olibanum (frankincense), vetiver, sandalwood, amber, tonka, musk

Although the floral impression stays throughout Calèche, the more mysterious, resiny, dry and almost leather base dominates the scent, drying down into an amber/tonka/musk softness and resting, at the end, into an almost incense spiciness before disappearing. For brief flashes, the coniferous cypress note suggests the bracing outdoors, an olfactory hint that the Calèche woman is no indoor, wilting flower.

A calèche is a type of horse-drawn carriage as well as a hood 18th century women wore that folded over like the carriage's hood. I think this name speaks volumes about what this scent is trying to project, and makes me think of SPW's (severe Parisian woman) comment about Hermès scents not being feminine in any conventional way. If anything, Calèche is saying more about its connection to an aristocratic history (i.e. class) than it is about femininity.

Hermès, after all, founded in 1837 as a saddle shop in Paris, is known by the unwashed masses for its Kelly and Birkin bags that start at $7,000 and can go all the way to $25,000. (Ugh,seriously?) It's not a lush Fracas or a va-va-va-voom Angel, remember; it's a fresh-faced woman riding a horse on her estate as the summer months wane and fall begins to make the air crisp.

You know — the "opposite of fantasy."

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If you’re a miniature bottle collector or want to get a great vintage scent without having to snipe for it on eBay, check out The Miniature Perfume Shoppe, where I got my taste of Calèche. A former Clinique account exec, super-nice Leslie Ann, who runs the show there, turned her passion for perfume into a business. MPS is Auctiva Commerce’s first store devoted to the miniature perfume bottle collector. Check her out!

Comments

[Elizabeth]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading this entry today! Years ago, my sister promised to bring me perfume from a trip to Paris--anything I wanted. I asked for Calandre (Paco Rabanne) because I had sniffed it somewhere and liked it. She returned with Caleche, which was a huge disappointment at the time. I really did not know how to appreciate this perfume, which smelled like an old saddle (!) to me. The closest I like to get to horses is to watch them run around a racetrack. Now, having read your blog today, I am ready to take the lovely little bottle (1/4 oz. parfum) down from the shelf and give her a try. I wonder what I will find...

[Perfumaniac]

Thanks, Elizabeth. I'm glad you enjoyed the review, and I hope you come back to report whether or not the intervening years (or the persuasive powers of this post — just kidding) have changed your mind about Calèche. To be honest, a couple years ago I would not have been able to appreciate its beauty (it is not my type), and even when I first took a whiff I wasn't a fan, but once you let it settle on your skin, it is pretty marvelous. Thanks for stopping by, and I really am curious what your return visit to Calèche is like!

[Elizabeth]

Okay, I will put some on tonight and let you know what I think tomorrow! All the best, E.

[Rita Long]

I was so disappointed by "Kelly Caleche"-- the one that Burr raves about at the end of "The Perfect Scent"-- but from your description, this sounds so much more my speed... I would like to be that woman-- although I love the idea of a scent being "like animals more than people..."

[Perfumaniac]

I have not smelled Kelly Calèche, Rita, but I think you would like this one. There's something very no-nonsense about it. And although Severe Parisian Woman was talking about Hermès scents in general, I think her comment would have been a welcome addition to the Calèche perfume brief: Likes animals more than people. :)

[Elizabeth]

I'm a little late getting back to you--sorry! I have been having trouble with a sinus infection and therefore my sense of smell has been out of order (odor?). Anyway, I took down the little vintage bottle (15ml) of Caleche from its high shelf and applied some to both wrists. The burst of aldehydes was there, yes, and this time I patiently waited for the development...and was rewarded with the most beautiful floral woody and spicy complexity, just as you have described. I am a little abashed, as I have been chasing after vintage Jolie Madame, when this little beauty was here all along! Now I must write to my sister and thank her all over again--this time with the utmost sincerity!

[Perfumaniac]

Wow, Elizabeth! That is amazing, and makes me really happy. Thanks for getting back to me, and I'm glad your nose is back in good working order/odor!

[robin]

I had a vintage mini Caleche EDT a while back that I discovered at an antique shop. I just could never come around to liking the scent, though I certainly appreciated its composition and complexity. You used the word "coniferous" in your review and that is a great description, I find there's a sweet crispness to it that dominates. My nose was never able to find the florals that people speak of, just that unrelenting sweet crispness. Later on I stumbled onto some vintage Madame Rochas EDC and it immediately reminded me of a perfect cross between vintage Ma Griffe and vintage Caleche: smooth, warm mossy florals with a hint of that Caleche crispness. Needless to say, I am in love with Madame Rochas and I wear it many times a week. As for Caleche...I ultimately decided to purge it from my collection. :-P

[Wiccanwoman.wordpress.com]

Ahh, Calèche... my favorite personal scent. I have had the perfume, powder, soap, etc., all at one time of another, beginning with the gift of a tiny bottle from my aunt in 1966 when I was 10 or 11 years of age. I liked it even then, and kept that bottle for many years.

I finally thought to look around on-line to find input and analysis, particularly about its composition and how others thought it smelled to them. I've enjoyed reading your page and the comments very much.

To me, the aroma reminds me of the sea... salty, deep and crisp.

I love it.

[Jana in Del Mar]

I have been wearing Caleche exclusively since the late 1970s when I received a 1/4 oz bottle from a boyfriend-not-to be. It is not sentimental in the sense that I connect it with a person or time or place. It simply smells heavenly and has been my signature scent since then. Twice, I veered away believing that I need to "update" my scent and both times I've returned.
This weekend, I bought FlowerBomb and am considering opening the bottle but will likely give to my lovely daughter who is looking for her signature.

[Perfumaniac]

Thanks for the comment, Jana! I love vintage Calèche, and cant imagine your substituting Flowerbomb for it! Particularly since Flowerbomb is already itself diluted Angel by Thierry Mugler...

[Oriel Ross Wardell]

Beautiful Caleche has been my signature perfume since it became avaiable. I am now 77yrs old and still wearing it.Someone or other always asks me what my perfume is, when I pass them by.Each time I open my wardrobe there is a hint of it in the air, so I am constantly taken back in time.I had a very nice boyfriend once who bought me a complete box of Caleche products,alas he turned out to be married ,so no more gifts of my favourite,but when I found him out and said goodbye, he said he would always remember the wonderful perfume I wore.Thank you so much Hermes for giving me a lifetime of pleasure. By the way I am just the type of woman you described except that I am not a Parisienne