Cusps in perfume and Zodiac signs toggle between the signature characteristics of the era/sign they're leaving and the ones they're moving toward. For example, I'm a Leo/Virgo, which means, on the one hand, that I am extroverted, need attention, and have energy to burn; and on the other, that I need time away from the madding crowd, that I don't need others' opinions, and that I occasionally need to tunnel under the bedcovers.
It joins the austere green chypre elegance of Givenchy III (1970) (with its soupçon of fruit) with the arid, "I'm not F$%cking around" dryness and bitterness of Scherrer No. 1 (1979).
Its powdery, mossy and perfume-y base is by turns strident and soft, and gives the bracing greenness of Woman Pure's beginning a brocaded opulence in the dry down in the form of resins, leather and animal notes. (Smelling the residue on the cap of the honkingly huge bottle I Smell Therefore I Am blogger Brian Pera gifted me brings home how much civet and/or castoreum must be hiding in this bottle.)
Top notes: Leafy green, aldehyde complex, galbanum, coriander, bergamot
Heart notes: Rose, jasmine, carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, lily of the valley, gardenia
Base notes: oakmoss, cedar, styrax, leather, benzoin, vetiver
I've been intrigued by Jil Sander fragrances. (I've written about her later fragrances, Jil Sander Woman 2  and Jil Sander Woman 3 .) Did Sander herself have a part in picking the perfumers or the styles of perfume? Does she have a particularly deft perfumista consultant? Why are her fragrances, even when I don't like them, consistently challenging and in-your-face? It's odd, considering her designs seem so minimalist. You'd expect her fragrances to be clean and neutral, the olfactory equivalent of beige or grey...
(Please note: the ad is from 2003 and features a more contemporary bottle. If you'd like to try a true 70s green floral with kick, find the bottle I've shown below the ad. There seem to be quite a few reasonably priced ones on eBay.)