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March 17, 2011

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Tamara*J

There are many on here I haven't yet tried.
I must simply remedy this.
Your post like always is perfection my dear.


xoxo~T

breathe 31

Oh boy, am I in trouble! Out of this list there are nine that I have never tried and now I want them all! :)

ScentScelf

I am a fan of every single one, with the exception of Cristalle, Weil de Weil, and Calyx...the first two only because I haven't tried them. And I don't *dislike* Calyx...I just don't know what I think yet.

Given that I am an eager learner, but not a voracious sampler, I'm thinking that this says more about my preferences than anything. ;)

Was Muguet de Bois Roudnitska's favorite? Interesting. I know that I usually prefer it to Diorissimo, because of the shot of green in there.

angie Cox

No 19 for me and yes Coty's Muget de Bois is gorgeous.

breathe31

I take back what I said in another post about no.19. Due to this post I retrieved my empty bottle of EDP no. 19 and sniffed away. There is definitely something intriguing about this scent which is probably why I kept coming back to it over the years. I will have to give it another try.

breathe31

Does anyone know if the Muguet de Bois is the same one that was sold in drugstores in the early 70s? I know that years ago Coty was considered "high end" but by the 70s many of the Coty fragrances were relegated to drugstore status. I wore Muguet de Bois as a child (the one from the drugstore) so I am wondering if it was the same one that Barbara is recommending.

Patty

I also wore Muguet des Bois back in the day, and loved it. LOV remains my holy-grail note. However, I'm not sure the current version is all it used to be (but then again, I wasn't a perfumista back then, and far less discerning). I have a bottle just a couple of years old, and it starts out with that lovely LOV I remember. Unfortunately, after awhile it turns sour on my skin. It may be a factor of the use of cheaper materials now.

The "green" category is one I approach with caution, as my skin does weird things with it. Citrus goes sour. Bandit, which I love, may be green on top but settles into a tuberose on my skin! Ivoire is a green fragrance that many adore and describe as "creamy", but it became unpleasantly sharp on me, like bug spray. I like chypres, however, and tend to do well with them.

I'm curious about Vent Vert. This is an iconic fragrance that, according to its devotees, was ruined in reformulation. Have you had the opportunity to sample both the vintage and new versions? What is your opinion?

Perfumaniac

Hi Patty,

Re: Muguet des Bois by Coty, the vintages are easy to find on eBay and quite reasonable.

Re: Vent Vert, I have tried the reformulation and it's just not the same fragrance. Even someone with no training would pick out vintage over the reformulation. It's the difference between watching Disney's original Sleeping Beauty and one of the digital animations now — No Comparison.

The original had depth, complexity, and uncannily referenced nature while smelling nothing at all like anything you'd ever sniffed! Glorious. Luca Turin says that when Calice Becker, who did the reformulation, looked at Germaine Cellier's original composition, she realized it had something like 1100 components that she reduced down to 31. You can smell that diminution, too.

Cellier often used bases for her perfumes that would become increasingly hard to source, so I guess that's one reason for the reformulation.

In short, if you can try the original, do it. Don't even bother with the reformulation. I don't say that about all perfumes, but this one, definitely.

Perfumaniac

Angie, glad there are No. 19 fans out there! It's an odd bird.

Perfumaniac

ScentScelf,

I wonder if there's been a badly-done Calyx reformulation. I think so. I still love the striking guava/grapefruit combo, though. It's interesting!

Re: Muguet des Bois. In Michael Edwards' Perfume Legends, he quotes Roudnitska as having said, "No
better lily note was ever made. It pushed the green note of the flower. As a lily note, it was magnificent. It was much better than the one I had made myself. I wondered how they had managed to create such a masterpiece in the Thirties, with so little means. I think I'm going to put that in the review now...

Anne

I love lists like this, and love greens too. I agree with you about the reformulated Vent Vert. Must do some research on Diorella - sounds terrific - but dollar signs are lighting up in my brain, as they always do when I think of vintage Diors. Silences is my green of the moment. I'm sure my sample is going to disappear fast, but replacing it with a FB, should I chose to, does not involve too many dollar signs, as it is nice and cheap! I reach for it when I need a quiet, undemanding companion.

Suzy Q

Thanks for this list and the great vintage ads. No. 19 is my palette cleansing perfume: it resets my nose. Silences doesn't smile but its chilly personality is just the ticket in the hottest part of the summer . Cristalle edp is my favorite green any time of year.

Perfumaniac

Cool, Suzy Q! You should also try the Cristalle EDT if you havent. It's different from the EDP from what I've heard. And yes, Silences is gorgeous, and I love the idea of No. 19 as a palette cleanser. Thanks for stopping by!

karen

Thanks for this. I've added a few to my to-try list.

Perfumaniac

Cool, Karen! What green scents do you currently like?

julie

Don't forget Estee Lauder Private Collection!

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